Most people think of the south when they picture Ibiza. Big beach clubs and packed resort towns. But head north to the municipality of Sant Joan de Labritja and the geography completely changes. Pine trees cover the hillsides here. The villages are mostly whitewashed churches and quiet squares connected by narrow roads. This is where the bohemian lifestyle from the 1960s actually survived, and it’s just everyday life rather than a marketing pitch.
The 1960s Left a Mark
Artists and dropouts claimed this side of the island decades ago. You can still see that exact crowd at the Las Dalias Hippy Market over in Sant Carles de Peralta. Sellers have been setting up stalls in this village since 1985. Go on a Saturday morning to buy flowing textiles and imported jewelry directly from the makers. Or wait for the Monday night market in the summer when they bring in live bands to play outside while people eat.
Then you drive west to Cala Benirràs. Locals bring drums to the beach every week to play as the sun drops behind the Cap Bernat rock. The noise bounces right off the water and creates an incredibly loud environment. The cove itself is mostly pebbles. You definitely want sturdy sandals to walk down to the shoreline.
Portinatx and the Northern Coves
Families usually base themselves around Portinatx because it sits right on three sandy coves and features a lighthouse with a totally unobstructed view up the coast. The hotels and restaurants are clustered close together. You don’t need to walk far for breakfast.
The isolated inlets require a bit more driving. Cala Xarraca is surrounded by red clay cliffs. People scrape the clay right off the walls to use as a natural mud bath before washing it off in the water. Which is incredibly clear for snorkeling. Cala d’en Serra takes more work to find since you have to navigate a rough track to get down there. The payoff is a swimming spot you usually only share with a handful of other people.
Inland Along the Farm Roads
The roads cut through old almond and fig groves. You will see ancient stone terraces holding up the hillsides. Cyclists love these quiet lanes. Sant Joan de Labritja itself sits right in the middle of this farmland. It consists of a simple white church and a few small squares. You grab a coffee and just watch the morning pass. Sundays bring a small local market to the streets.
Old rural farmhouses called fincas dot the surrounding fields. Many operate as agrotourism hotels now. If you rent a car you can just drive until you find a roadside stand selling fresh fruit. Or pull over for a long lunch at a country restaurant serving traditional farm-to-table Ibicencan food.
Getting Around the North
You really need a rental car for this region. Public buses run out here but they rarely go down to the remote beaches. Waiting for one in the summer heat gets old fast. Spring and autumn are better times to visit anyway. The fields turn bright green and you can actually find parking near the coves. Leave the crowded southern resorts behind.