You’ll feel the stones of Cala Jondal right through your beach towel. It happens within five minutes. This entire southern bay is covered in flat grey and white pebbles that make laying on the ground an exercise in endurance. People flock here anyway. They drag along thick yoga mats or just surrender to the extortionate daybed prices. You get incredibly clear water and a relentless thumping bassline. Blue Marlin sits right on the shoreline pumping house music by 4 PM on a typical Tuesday. I always prefer swimming early before the VIP crowd shakes off their hangovers and takes over the bay.
Walking on the Stones
So buy a pair of those ugly neoprene water shoes. Walking barefoot into the surf actually hurts quite a bit. Once you get past the initial shore break the Mediterranean drops off fast and the swimming gets excellent. Because there is absolutely no sand for the waves to kick up into a cloudy mess the underwater visibility stays perfect all day. You can see small silver fish darting around thirty feet down. I bought a cheap snorkel mask from a ferretería in Sant Josep for about twelve euros. Some older locals still use the traditional Sabina wood and reed shades at the back of the beach. Those spots get claimed by 9 AM. The guys who grab them don’t move until dinner.
The Beach Clubs
You probably already know the name Blue Marlin. The club occupies a massive chunk of the bay and you can hear the daytime DJ sets from the dirt parking lot. A basic sunbed costs around 100 euros in August. You absolutely have to book it weeks ahead or the bouncers will just wave you away. The crowd leans heavily on designer swimwear and mirrored sunglasses. Waitresses navigate trays of overpriced drinks through tight crowds of people who seem to be there entirely to photograph each other. It is incredibly loud.
Jockey Club sits right next door. They built a whitewashed wooden deck that attracts a slightly older crowd. The kitchen serves surprisingly good food for a beach club. I ordered a plate of jamón ibérico last summer that cost 28 euros and arrived cut perfectly thin. It was worth the money. You get decent Mediterranean food and relaxed background music without some guy in a linen shirt spilling a mojito on your bag.
Food Away From the Speakers
Walk around the rocky western headland. Es Xarcu is a family-run restaurant operating right by the water. They serve whole grilled fish and a heavy lobster stew called caldereta de langosta. The wooden chairs sink right into the red dirt while you eat. You’ll probably spot a stray orange cat waiting for scraps under your table. Back on the main beach El Chiringuito Cala Jondal serves a massive pan of seafood paella. You eat with your bare feet resting directly on the stones. I usually just order a cold Estrella and a plate of blistered padrón peppers. They charge about 6 euros for the beer. The waitstaff at El Chiringuito swap shifts at 4 PM so make sure to get your food orders in before the kitchen gets confused during the handover.
Getting There and Parking
Getting down to the bay requires a quick drive south from Sant Josep. The turnoff is well marked. But the dirt parking lot turns into a dusty chaotic mess by 11 AM in July. Arrive around 10. That gives you two hours of quiet swimming before the clubs start blasting deep house across the water. You need to tip the parking attendant a couple of euros in coins. The guy in the faded yellow vest gets visibly angry if you hand him a 20-euro note and expect change.
Bring your own umbrella if you refuse to pay for a club bed. Sunscreen costs a fortune at the small boutique shop near the entrance. Do not forget yours. Pack a heavy towel and your snorkeling gear. The drive back up the hill at sunset gets completely bottlenecked by a steady stream of taxis dropping off the evening party crowd.
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