Ibiza looks tiny on a map. You can drive from the airport straight up to Portinatx in 45 minutes. But that small footprint packs in a massive amount of uneven rocky coastline. Public buses are fine if your entire plan is drinking in San Antonio. They absolutely will not get you down to a quiet cove at 9 AM before the clubbers wake up. You need a car to get anywhere interesting. I waited an hour for the L13 bus last September before giving up.
Pick the Right Vehicle for the Dirt Roads
So many people book a cheap Fiat 500 and then completely panic when they see the driveway to their villa. The main highways are smooth. The routes to the actual beaches are completely different. Locals call the rural dirt tracks caminos. Some are just flat gravel. Others drop down at extreme angles with massive craters that will rip the exhaust right off a low-clearance compact car. I saw a guy in a rented Mini Cooper stuck halfway down the hill to Cala Mastella last Tuesday afternoon. Rent a small SUV. A 4×4 is even better if you plan to drive down to Cala d’Hort. The extra ground clearance saves you from constantly clenching your teeth waiting for the sound of rocks scraping the undercarriage.
Booking Timing and Insurance Realities
Rental supply drops to zero by August. Prices for a basic automatic shoot from €35 a day in May to well over €110 a day in mid-July. Book your car months before you get on the plane. You can check comparison sites like Rentalcars.com to weigh your options. Record Go often has the cheapest base rates. Just know the queue at their airport desk takes an hour in the summer heat because everyone is arguing about the deposit. Pay close attention to the insurance. Rental companies here routinely freeze €1,500 on your credit card for the excess. Scratches from stray pine branches on those dirt tracks are basically guaranteed. Buy a standalone excess policy from a third party beforehand for maybe €5 a day instead of taking the expensive desk upgrade.
Navigating the E-20 and Pitch-Black Backroads
Getting between Ibiza Town and San Antonio means taking the E-20. The road is a modern dual carriageway. Driving it is completely straightforward until you hit the massive multi-lane roundabouts on the edges of town where the lane markings make absolutely no sense. Drivers already on the roundabout have the right of way. Watch your mirrors. Delivery scooters weave directly through your blind spot without looking.
Night driving is the actual hazard. Street lighting stops existing the second you leave the resort areas. You end up on dark unlit roads bordered by thick stone walls right against the asphalt. Drive slower than you think you need to.
And Spain takes drinking and driving incredibly seriously. The legal blood alcohol limit is 0.5 mg/ml. One small bottle of Estrella puts you right near the line. The Guardia Civil set up checkpoints on the roads out of Playa d’en Bossa around 3 AM. They fine you on the spot and leave you standing on the shoulder while a tow truck takes the rental car away.
Parking Hassles and Finding Fuel
Do not try to find free street parking in Ibiza Town in August. You will just waste an hour driving in circles. Head straight to the Es Pratet paid lot near the port. It costs about €3 an hour. That adds up incredibly fast if you leave the car overnight. But it saves your sanity. Smaller villages usually have free dirt lots on the outskirts. Look for a dusty field with a hand-painted blue P sign tied to an olive tree.
Fuel is easy enough to find between Ibiza Town and Santa Eulalia. The north is a completely different situation. Fill up before you head up to San Juan. Gas stations are sparse up there. The card readers at the pumps drop their connection constantly. Keep a €50 note stuffed in the glovebox so you can just pay cash when the system inevitably goes down. Always have your physical passport and the paper rental contract in the car. The police ask for those immediately if they pull you over for a random check.
Recommended experiences
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